The Surprising Story of Tomatoes in European Cuisine
When you think of European food, many famous dishes come to mind: spaghetti with tomato sauce from Italy, gazpacho from Spain, or ratatouille from France. Tomatoes are a key ingredient in so many European recipes that it’s hard to imagine how these dishes would taste without them. But did you know that tomatoes were not always part of European cuisine? In fact, there was a time when Europeans didn’t grow, eat, or even trust tomatoes! The story of how this humble fruit (yes, tomatoes are technically a fruit) became a star of European cooking is full of surprises.
Where Did Tomatoes Come From?
Tomatoes have an interesting origin. They are native to South America and were first cultivated by the Aztecs and other indigenous groups in Mexico long before Europeans had ever seen them. The word “tomato” actually comes from the Nahuatl (Aztec) word tomatl. The Spanish conquistadors brought tomatoes back to Europe in the early 1500s after their expeditions in the Americas.
When the first tomatoes arrived in Europe, they were very different from the bright red ones we see in grocery stores today. These early tomatoes were small and yellow, earning them the nickname “golden apples.” Over time, different varieties were developed, but it took hundreds of years for tomatoes to become the widely used ingredient we know today.
Why Were Tomatoes Feared?
Despite their appealing appearance, tomatoes were not embraced by Europeans at first. In fact, tomatoes were often feared and considered dangerous shortly after their arrival. There were several reasons for this.
One reason is that tomatoes belong to the nightshade family, which includes some poisonous plants like belladonna and deadly nightshade. Because of this, many Europeans thought tomatoes might be toxic. Adding to the suspicion, people who ate tomatoes often got sick—but not because of the tomatoes themselves. In the 1500s and 1600s, European nobles ate their meals on pewter plates, which contained lead. Tomatoes are acidic, and when they came into contact with the lead in the plates, the reaction released toxic substances. Unfortunately, people blamed the tomatoes for poisoning them, rather than the plates.
Another odd theory about tomatoes was that they caused madness. Some people in Europe dubbed tomatoes “the devil’s fruit,” believing they had the power to drive people insane. With such rumors circulating, tomatoes were avoided in most households. For a long time, they were grown only as decorative plants for their pretty leaves and colorful fruit.
Italy Turns the Tide
While much of Europe rejected tomatoes for centuries, Italy slowly began to embrace them. By the late 1600s and early 1700s, tomatoes started appearing in Italian recipes. One of the earliest records of tomatoes being used in cooking comes from Naples in 1692, where a cookbook described adding tomatoes to sauces.
Why did Italians take to tomatoes when others didn’t? Some historians suggest it was because Italian cuisine already relied heavily on vegetables, herbs, and simple ingredients, making tomatoes a natural fit. Italian cooks began using tomatoes in sauces, soups, and other dishes, and local farmers started experimenting with growing them. By the 18th and 19th centuries, tomatoes were a staple ingredient in Italian cooking, especially in dishes like pizza and pasta.
The Tomato’s European Expansion
As trade and communication between European countries increased, tomatoes gradually spread beyond Italy. They became popular in Spain as people discovered their delicious flavor and versatility. Spanish cuisine started using tomatoes to make dishes like gazpacho and sofrito, a tomato-based cooking base. In France, too, tomatoes found their way into recipes, especially in southern regions like Provence, where ratatouille and bouillabaisse often feature the fruit.
By the 19th century, tomatoes had conquered most of Europe, helped in part by advancements in farming. Farmers developed more varieties of tomatoes, including larger, redder ones that were sweeter and less acidic. With better preservation techniques like canning, tomatoes became available year-round, making them even more essential to European kitchens.
Tomato Becomes a Global Superstar
Today, tomatoes are an irreplaceable ingredient in European cuisine. From rich Italian pasta sauces to refreshing Greek salads, it’s almost impossible to imagine European food without tomatoes. But the story doesn’t end there—it’s not just Europeans who love tomatoes. They’ve become a global superstar, enjoyed in cuisines all over the world, from Mexican salsa to Indian curries.
Interestingly, tomatoes are now so deeply connected to European food that many people assume they originated there. For example, tomato-based dishes like pizza and pasta are often marketed around the world as quintessentially Italian. But as we’ve seen, tomatoes actually began their journey far away in the Americas.
What Can We Learn from the Tomato’s Story?
The story of the tomato is more than just a history lesson. It’s a reminder of how food connects cultures and how something unfamiliar can become beloved over time. Imagine how different European cuisine would be if people had never embraced tomatoes!
So, the next time you enjoy a bowl of spaghetti or a slice of pizza, remember how far the tomato has traveled—from the farms of South America to European plates, overcoming fear and doubt along the way. Humble as it may seem, the tomato truly has a fascinating and surprising story.
